Prepare surfaces for plastering.

One of the major conditions that determine the quality of plaster, is a strong bond with its surface, which bears it. When there is insufficient linkage plaster peeling from the surface, and then disappears. For a lasting bond with the surface of the solution needs to be properly prepared, ie, give it a rough, clean from dust and other contaminants. Different surfaces require different preparation. Prior to surface preparation is necessary to check the verticality of walls and partitions, horizontal overlap, and the strength of the installation constructions. By the beginning of stucco should be installed partitions, doors and windows box (windows are glazed), built-in furniture is finished installation of heating, water supply sanitation; laid hidden wiring. Surface of brick masonry, concrete and other structures before plastering decarbonate - washing with 3% hydrochloric acid solution followed by flushing with clean water from the taint of non-drying oils - WELDING layer of fat clay, followed by drying and cleaning (sometimes the process is repeated), the dust dirt, residues of the solution - Preparation of steel brushes or stiff brooms. In the brick walls, designed under the plaster masons usually leave a small pustoshovku: do not fill the joints between the bricks to a depth of 10-15 mm. These slots will plaster and provide adhesion of the plaster coat. This is usually sufficient, if the porous brick. If the brick has a smooth surface, but still made with masonry grouting from the inside, an additional incision walls is required. Such walls dent as well as concrete and cinder block surface using a chisel and hammer (ax) - cause strokes depth of 3-5 mm with a distance of 5-7 mm apart. On average, 1m2 area walls should be about 300 notches. Grooved surface swept a steel brush. In the presence of large (over 25 mm) deviation from the plane of the depression adhesive qualities of braided wire or metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 mm and fastened with nails that are hammered into the joints of masonry. On concrete surfaces mesh is attached to the issues of reinforcement wire. If not - shoot in dowels or nailed to wooden plugs driven into holes drilled. Metal mesh is also used for device interfaces plastered surfaces of dissimilar materials (eg wood and concrete or brick, with the grid comes to 40-50 mm on both sides of the junction) when performing any architectural details, plastering carrying metal constructions (eg, beams or Kosourov) to improve fire resistance. To protect it from rusting mesh covered with cement milk. Before applying the solution to wet the entire surface of the water. Water washes away the dust and prevents the solution from the quick impact of moisture, because of what he can crack and not gain the required strength. Wood surfaces before plastering upholster tattered or delayed wire mesh, boards of a width exceeding 100 mm nadkalyvayut and nadkoly clog wedges to form a slit width of 5-12 mm. To reduce heat and Sound conductivity wooden partition walls and ceilings, they are packing up drann stuffed with cardboard, soft fibreboard or pull a mat, burlap, felt. These materials solution adheres well, and less wood gets wet and does not warp, which largely preserves the plaster from cracking. Felt should be pre-impregnated with a solution of mercuric chloride against moths, as well as antiseptic composition (eg, 3% solution of sodium fluoride), then dry well. Mat and burlap should be solid and clean. Can be used and used, but in no case are those in which transported any substances that contain salt, prepared material is applied to the wall so that one end touches the floor, and nail the bottom of the nails, then straighten and pull up that there are no wrinkles, and at the edges and nailed. Thin piece of cloth materials (matting, sacking) dock lap thick - and butt nailed. Nails, hammer only half their length, while the remaining half bent. Slabosvalyany felt, which can be easily torn, pre-wound on a round wooden rod or metal pipe. Roll roll upward, clinging to the surface. Soft felt close glassine. If you do not, then the gaps between the surface and filled with felt torn off, causing worsening grip tattered. In addition, felt, pressed tattered be squeezed out of the cells in the form of cushions on which the plaster is easily pressed. Dran - the name itself suggests that it is not sawed lath, and kick, pinned, tweaking. Its chips (pinch) along the grain of the pieces of roundwood required length. Wood for making drann may have krasninku and blue, but should be free of rot. Dran can be replaced by a split firewood. For the bottom row (called prostilnym) select a more subtle drann - 3-4 mm thick. If the number of lay prostilny drann thinner 3 mm, the solution can not penetrate under the tattered void formed by the output (average particle size of sand grains is 3 mm) and will not adhere to it. When drann thickness exceeding 4 mm would require increasing the thickness of the plaster gallop that the warping drann can break the dried plaster. On the top row - a day off, or podboechny - you can put thicker Dranitsa - 4 -5 mm. Width drann should be along the entire length (from 1,2 to 1,7 m) for at least 15 and not more than 20 mm as drann for 15 mm pricked during pile in her nails, and wider than 20 mm when wet boxes and tearing plaster . On the output chosen a smoother drann on prostilnuyu will fit the curve. Stuffing can be made as drann tattered piece (with small amount of work), and with the help dranochnyh shields. Woodblock drann stuffed so. First, stuffed with a 45 ° angle to the left - up - right through the 40 - 45 mm prostilnuyu drann, then top right angles to it through the 40-50 mm output drann. Prostilnuyu drann nailed only at the ends, and the output - on the ends and 2-3 prostilnye Dranitsa. Prostilny number is usually fastened at the edges of two nails, beating them until the end. Let's try to creatively come up this operation - the nails will only baits (no score at full length). When the top layer podboyke these nails removed and immediately scored in the output layer - thus significantly reduce the cost of nails. Boxed stuffing drann can be significantly accelerated by applying a frame-pattern having slits corresponding to the grid, which is formed Dranitsa prostilnogo and output types. In the grooves lay drann. But first, put off a number of upstairs - prostilny, then the frame is temporarily fixed to the wall and nailed both layers drann. Quickly and economically: it saves all the nails, which would go on prostilny series. After tamping the frame is removed. The ends of the output drann nailed to the wall if you do not, drann can warp, damage plaster layer. Install a nail must be strictly centered Dranitsa. Drann dry so as not to split during pile of nails, a little soaked. If during pile of nails she still is pricked, the nails should be placed in a checkerboard pattern, alternating slipping a bit from the center of it into one side or the other. Ends drann should not join in the butt, but with a gap of 2 - 3 mm, because when you connect all drann butt will it increase in volume, swelling and rupture of the plaster. In areas of contact with wood, stone or concrete line interface sheathe the metal mesh of wire with a diameter of 1,5-2 mm with an aperture of not more than 50x50 mm. If the walls, partitions and ceilings are wooden, the gasket drann start from the bottom wall and, reaching the top, go to the stuffing her to the ceiling. On the ceiling drann stuffed as well as on the walls.