Over time, the surface of the plaster ceiling and wall cracks, stains, sometimes it can be destroyed, especially near the door and window frames, baseboards. The formation of plaster defects may be: poorly prepared base, wrong choice of material and it ended too quick drying of the solution, the effect of temperature fluctuations, frequent moisturizing base under the plaster, a concussion, damage from impact or pressure. Prior to the repair check the clutch of the old plaster from the ground surface by lightly tapping on the plaster with a hammer or a trowel handle. If the grip is fragile, plaster bunit - publishes a rattling sound. In such places, as well as where it was black or stained, the plaster was removed. However, before you do this, we must try to deduce stains with a solution of copper sulfate. Its composition (in grams): copper sulphate - 200-300, 40 per cent soap - 250-270; carpenter's glue - 200-250; linseed oil - 30-40. First, in one liter of water dissolve vitriol, which need enamelware. Then dissolve the glue (the rate of 100 grams per liter of water) and add the soap and varnish. Derived compounds and mix thoroughly before use dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. Contaminated site was treated with primer three - four times. If the stain is removed failed to paint over zinc white. Grease stains can be removed with detergent, and if it does not work, rub the stain with gasoline or turpentine. For the repair of plaster applied lime-stucco-mortar (cement can be used only in places with high humidity - bath, toilet, etc.). Prepare it as follows. Hydrated lime is mixed with sifted sand. Ashes of starting work in the studio added to the mixture and water until a creamy mass. To 1 part plaster (by volume), take 2 parts hydrated lime and 5 parts of sifted sand. In the lime does not share outstanding lumps - in the future this may lead to the formation of Dutikow. This solution is prepared in small portions and then consume it (within 5-7 minutes). Before plastering edge chipped places it is moistened with water to a fresh solution stronger than grapple with the old plaster. With insufficient wetting at the interface of old and new plaster after drying may again be formed of the crack. When the damaged area in the plaster filled with a solution, it is spread, and over time will be overwritten with a trowel or float (a wooden plaque with a handle). The focus should be placed on lapping the new plaster to old. When bad lapped even nipped a good solution will be allocated on a common surface. It should be borne in mind that sooner overwritten plaster cracks, and later overwritten - crumbles. Grout is usually produced when the solution does not stick to the grater, but still retains plasticity. Grater is pressed against the surface of the plaster and make a circular motion, capturing the part and the old, intact plaster. Grater and the surface should be wet plaster. At the end of the operation surface of the plaster will be overwritten so that the solution was leveled in the same plane with the old plaster. Then re-plastered the place will not be allocated a spot. Before plastering damaged areas all unnecessary nails removed and the holes close up solutions cracked plaster fray. In this case, the crack advance broaden and deepen the knife: Thin - to a depth of no more than 1 cm wide - the entire thickness of the plaster. Then moisten the crack with water and close up with a solution. The gap between the wall and skirting clearing, moisten with water and densely solution. Excess solution was removed and the remainder will be overwritten by a float. In cases where the old plaster was made of cement-sand mortar, repair should be performed as a cement-sand mortar (1 part cement to 4.5 parts sifted sand with the addition of water). Should not be allowed layering plaster on proshpatlevannye or painted surfaces. Consider also that the stucco and wood when the temperature and humidity changes in the volume varies. Therefore, the plaster should not come into contact with this material - a pairing of door and window frames joints must promazyvat alabaster solution. Particular attention at repairing plaster surfaces should be given to the joints of the partitions and walls. As a result of fallout here at home are often formed cracks and crevices. At such sites should be cleared crack recapture the old plaster and attach a metal grid with small cells. Mesh set into the corner joint of walls and partitions so that half of it adhered to the wall, and another - to the partition. Grid strengthen nails. If the grid is not nailed nails, coil wire on them. Damaged corners better repair with plaster solution, which quickly hardens. For this purpose, laying bare the remains of the solution is removed, scrape the seams to a depth of 20 mm, moistened with water, causing the plaster weight and well-leveled it. Joints between old and new plaster will be overwritten by a float and a wet brush. Certain complexity is repairing surfaces, coated with dry plaster. Sheets of drywall, glued to the surface, have the disadvantage that is between them and the surface has an empty space depth of 10 mm or more. Mostly sheets are pressed and require repair. Close up sagging place chunks of drywall, plywood or cardboard. Repair these surfaces in the following order. Clip repairable place in the form of a rectangle, square, triangle, and the same shape cut-piece patch. Surface at the repaired site prepared by cleaning it from dust, dirt, and moisten with water. Then prepare gipsokleevuyu mastic or gypsum paste in the right quantity. Applied to a repaired place sculpting or babashki mortar or mastic so that they were at 10-15 mm above the existing tiles. These modeling applied the patch and pressed it flush with the old veneer. 40-60 minutes later, as soon as the clutch mastic or mortar, the joints filled with the same mastic or putty and is spread on a level with the fascia. Surface-coated sheets of drywall, you can also repair lime-gypsum mortar or gypsum mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3 (1 part gypsum + 3 parts sand). To do this, cut out the damaged area and tightly placed around the perimeter of the space between the wall and the wall tiles are indented from the edges of the edge to 10-20 mm paper rolls delimiter. Then the solution is prepared and applied it to the repaired position. Thanks to the rolls solution does not spread to the sides. His leveled and will be overwritten so that the new plaster was on par with the previous surface finish. With quality work surface wet and dry plaster gets exactly. Repair ceilings of the prefabricated concrete slabs is to correct the plaster between the plates (in the seams). For this purpose, are made generally along the length of the room (you can make it a composite of two or more pieces) and the so-called rustic - poluterok small size with an opening slot on the canvas and nailed him to the cutting part - piece of iron, sharpened on one side and taken out of shape Rust usually in the form of a semicircle with a diameter of 5 to 10 mm. Then generally fastened to the ceiling so that when the attachment to it rustic rustics was exactly between the plates on the center seam. Clearing the edge of the plates, moistened with water is prepared grout with a small addition of gypsum, obscure the seam mortar flush with the plates, well-leveled, overwritten, especially carefully lapping the edge. By the rule is pressed with the push of rustication and rubbed it, cutting off the solution. Cutting through the rust, moisten it with water and fix a small poluterkom. Repair of walls made of reinforced concrete panels. Seams between the panels repaired as well as on the ceiling. First, remove the weak solution of holding on to, well prepare vacant joints densely them prepared with cement or cement-lime mortar, level and rubbed, very carefully lapping the edge. Order through the seams do not blew cold air them before. plastering should be caulked oakum or hemp with a knife, chisel or a specially made of steel or hardwood (birch, oak, maple) konopatki - spatula width of 50-80 mm, a thickness of 5 mm with a finely cut-off blade. Strands of oakum or hemp dipped in a creamy mixed plaster of Paris (no more than a liter), is inserted into the slot and thoroughly compacted by striking konopatke hammer, so as to deepen the wall was lower by 20 mm. Then suture obscure solution and rubbed. Likewise caulk the gaps between the window and door frames in brick buildings. Zakonopachennye gap obscure or well known gypsum-plaster solution. Strengthening plaster. If the plaster behind, but neotvalilas, it can be strengthened. It is necessary to drill who quit the reservoir and syringe or a syringe to fill the cavity of the glue (CMC, "Bustilat, PVA, etc.) and then put a piece of cardboard or plywood, plaster and gently press with the help of braces and a wedge. Zheleznenie surface. To cement plaster floors or less permeable, their iron. Pure cement paste (cement and water) even with a thin layer (2-3 mm) applied on fresh plaster, carefully leveled and smooth down (compacted) spatula or otrezovkoy - small plaster spatula. On horizontal surfaces or having a small slope can be used another way. Fresh solution was sprinkled on top with a thin layer of cement and, after waiting until it gets wet, level and smooth down. Than even layer zhelezneniya and carefully smoothed it, the more water-resistant surface. When working with alabaster. Good capacity for mixing plaster is half of a rubber or plastic ball - thanks to the high ductility can be easily removed the frozen remains of plaster. To increase the strength of plaster for kneading, use water instead of aqueous solution of PVA glue (1 part glue to 2-5 parts water). Divorce studio for any repair work, for example, for glossing over the gaps or holes, you can add vinegar to the water (1-2%). It slows the setting of alabaster, which is easy to smooth over the surface. The smell of vinegar as quickly erode.
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