Redecoration

Refurbishing - a concept largely conditional, because the complexity of the complex and time consuming work to be performed, depending on building construction, the initial quality of construction and finishing works, as well as time and conditions of use of the building in general and in specific areas particular. Once the reservation that the alignment of walls and ceilings to bring them up to compliance with European standards go far beyond cosmetic repairs, but because in this paper is not considered. Similarly, refurbishment of kitchens, bathrooms, lavatories, etc., usually entails making cosmetic repairs - the concept is largely conditional, because the complexity of the complex and time consuming work to be performed, depending on building construction, the initial quality of execution construction and finishing works, as well as time and conditions of use of the building in general and specific areas in particular. Once the reservation that the alignment of walls and ceilings to bring them up to compliance with European standards go far beyond cosmetic repairs, but because in this paper is not considered. Similarly, refurbishment of kitchens, bathrooms, lavatories, etc., usually involves the employment of qualified specialists (plumbers, electricians, tilers) and the use of specialized materials (water-resistant, waterproof). Most of these works can be done on their own, but it is - a topic for another article. Simple cosmetic repairs, which will be discussed, can be described as the restoration of the former state of residential and office premises without a work to replace various finishes. This work package includes plywood wallpaper, repainting the ceiling, painting windows, doors, skirtings and architraves, as well as polishing the parquet floor and covering them with varnish. Restoration of parquet - the process is rather complicated and time consuming, requiring certain qualifications of performers and use of specialized equipment. For this reason, hardwood work is best left to a specialist - any initiative, aimed at cost savings may result in more costly. At the same time, all other operations included in the program a simple face-lift, if you have the desire, time, and the minimum skills, it can be executed independently. Since the best results are achieved only in the case of waste and methods of application tested materials (unfortunately, not always the cheapest), we suggest that in the process of work to adhere to the recommendations of the staff teams of special coatings (BSP), ARA Centre, took part in writing this article. Getting Started First of all the premises shall be exempt from furniture (if possible). The remaining pieces of furniture are grouped in the center of the room and carefully sheltering film. In any case, you must provide easy access to the walls around the perimeter and the ability to perform work on the entire area of ??the ceiling. If replacing the floor covering is not planned, it must be protected from dirt and possible mechanical damage. Parquet, laminate or carpeting must close hardboard sheets or cartons (clean and dry), over which is laid a thick plastic film (with overlap of adjacent panels not less than 10 cm). In order to improve the protective properties of the joints webs of film is recommended to glue the sticky tape (scotch). Coatings based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC), linoleum is often incorrectly called, quite easily washed from most kinds of dirt, so to protect them enough cover the floor a thick plastic film. In the course of the work the most amount of dirt is formed around the perimeter of the room. In this regard, the protective film preferably glued and taped to the plinth. Skirting dismantled only in the case of replacement, replacement of flooring, or sanding the parquet. If repainting skirting is not required, they should protect the masking tape. Masking tape - a special tape on paper, which, after completion of the work is easy (as opposed to tape) is removed from the surface to be protected. Decorative borders with sockets and switches removed, and the "stuffing" stick with masking tape. Naturally, all electrical circuits must first be de-energized. Dismantling of old coatings Preparing walls and ceilings begins dismantling (removal) of existing coatings. Currently, the most common ceiling coverings is a water-emulsion paint. The houses of old construction ceilings trimmed lime wash. Much rarer ceilings, painted with oil or alkyd enamels. Water-dispersion paint and enamel are not dissolved by water, so wash them with the ceiling surface is virtually impossible. Sufficiently removed by steel trowel loose parts coverage and broaden the crack angle of the same spatula. Enamel is desirable to handle with sandpaper to increase the roughness and improve the adhesion with newly inflicted upon layers. Lime wash must wash before the underlying layer of putty. It's simple, but very time-consuming operation, on careful implementation of which depends on the quality of adhesion of the new coating to the base (the remnants of whitewash are separating layer, significantly reducing the adhesion of the newly deposited coatings, which leads to the formation of bubbles). Layer of whitewash, whose thickness can reach several millimeters, get soaked with water using a paint roller and removed with a steel spatula. Sometimes completely remove the whitewash in a single pass can not, in this case the operation is repeated many times. Residues are washed away with whitewashing the ceiling surface with a wet sponge. The technology of dismantling old wallpaper is not dramatically different from the technology for removal of lime wash: loose pieces of wallpaper stripped in a dry "areas, firmly glued to the wall, soaked with water and remove with a spatula. In older homes is often glued wallpaper in several layers, and the actual wall (for leveling the surface) was made paste papers (redecorating his apartment, the author with great interest read the article half a century ago). In such case, only patience, continued consistently to macerate and remove layer after layer of wallpaper. Some types of modern wallpaper (like "triplex") is easily removed from the surface of the wall, leaving the surface layer of fine backside of paper. If the wall is quite smooth and not in need of repair, this layer should not be removed, as new wallpaper perfectly glued to it. Old paint doors, architraves and window frames is removed only if it is cracking and peeling. In most of this "disease" are subject to window frames, whose recovery is undoubtedly among the most labor-intensive operations. Nevertheless, the complete removal of peeling paint in this case should be considered mandatory, because the local elimination of damage with putty and then repainting will likely not give positive results: after a few months back frame will be ruined. There are two methods remove the oil (alkyd) enamel: a chemical and thermal. In the first case, the paint layer is softened by means of special chemical compounds known as "wash", and removed with a spatula or scrapers of various shapes that can be made from scrap materials or buy in the store building tools. Remover - a specially selected blend of solvents and (or) the bases with a thickener, prevents rapid drying of the composition and formation of stains on vertical surfaces. Washes are not cheap, and work with them takes a lot of time. More productive is a thermal method, involving softening of the paint under high temperature, which is provided by hot air generated by a special dryer. The paint is softened on small plots and removed with a scraper. Unfortunately, this hair dryer is quite expensive, since belongs to the category of professional construction tools (hairdryer for hair styling is absolutely not suitable, although it does not stand on the principle of action). Note that the restoration of skirting boards with complete removal of old paint and subsequent elimination of defects with putty, is likely to be uneconomical. Prepare surfaces for finishing after the completion of the dismantling of old coats to eliminate defects in the walls and ceiling. To facilitate penetration of the repair material (filler) in the crack they need to broaden (expand), the damaged area to clear the hold of little fragments, and flaking (bubnyaschie ") sections of plaster layer is completely removed. Thus prepared surface of a mandatory processed primer composition for hygroscopic (moisture absorbing) bases, for example, "Tiffengrund (TIGI Knauf). Primers - aqueous solutions of polymers containing long polymer chains that can penetrate deeply into the porous structure of concrete or plaster and be secured within it, greatly strengthened by the surface layer of the base and eliminating dust formation, which in turn provides the maximum level of adhesion of repair material composition with the base . After drying, the primer deep potholes and places a layer of plaster fell off, are sealed cement-lime plaster. In the worst case (to accelerate the process) you can use the alabaster or plaster solution to the gypsum-based type Rotband (TIGI Knauf). Typically, this operation is performed using a rectangular trowel stainless steel - tool is highly convenient and versatile. To repair the deep cracks in concrete and masonry structures can be recommended, quick repair putty "Shpahtelmasse (TIGI Knauf) cement-based repair plaster layer suitable filler" Uniflot (TIGI Knauf). Repaired areas are primed and finally leveled the surface sealer such as "Vetonit CD" or "Vetonit LR (Optiroc). In the course of this operation eliminated minor irregularities base and filled with small cracks. Keep in mind that the thickness of filler should not exceed 2 mm thickness is provided by a large drawing of several layers, with each subsequent layer is applied after the complete drying of the previous layer. Serious cracks in the ceiling is recommended in addition to glue strips of plaster Glass with a mesh size 2x2 mm. The application for this purpose tape "serpyanka" nonwoven does not exclude the probability of re-entry of the crack in the ceiling surface. Technology sticking tape is as follows: on the ceiling surface layer of a filler, glass-is pressed into the putty and get ground with a spatula. Surplus putty, squeeze through the grid cells are removed with a spatula and return the container for reuse. Do I need to putty the walls and ceiling completely, or you can restrict the alignment of individual sites? If you plan to finish the walls with dense dark colored wallpaper, thick embossed wallpaper or wallpaper before painting - putty entire surface is not necessary. Through the thin bright wallpaper, nezashpaklevannye sites will shine through dark spots: in this case the wall shpaklyuyut completely. The ceiling, covered with a water-emulsion paint, putty completely not necessary (it is sufficient to putty damaged areas), but one should bear in mind that the texture of the finish coat of paint on puttied and nezashpaklevannyh sites can vary greatly, especially when grazing illumination. Materials compatibility issues often arise when stained surfaces coated with enamel: some water-emulsion paint bad fall on the enamel. On this basis, we can recommend in all cases completely cover the surface of the ceiling by a thin (on tearing off ") a layer of putty. Dried plaster is carefully processed to fine sandpaper or an abrasive grid. The use of an abrasive mesh provides the best results. Methods to prevent re-cracking chance of cracking depends mainly on the design of the ceiling. Ceiling joists formed solid reinforced concrete slab is usually not subject to cracking. If there is a ceiling joints of concrete slabs - the appearance of cracks at this point is very likely. The most severe situation in the homes of old buildings with wooden floors (often with insufficient rigidity), the ceilings of which are covered with a layer of plaster. Susceptible to cracking and ceilings, which sooner or later crack in the expansion joints of sheets, as it were, qualitatively, these joints do not close up. Practice shows that the probability of re-emergence of even carefully clamped ceiling cracks is very high. To combat this unpleasant phenomenon can recommend the use of fiberglass ceiling wallpaper, known as "gossamer." Web - rolled nonwoven fabric made of fiberglass, having a thickness of 1,5 - 2,0 mm and having a relatively loose structure. Considerable thickness and cobwebs loose structure does not allow the cracks to go on the ceiling surface. Private gossamer cloth glued butt glue for wallpaper. The ceiling surface, prepared as described above (defects patched, cracks sealed with fiberglass, puttied and treated with sandpaper), primed with glue diluted with clean water by 20-30%. After drying the primer composition is applied to the ceiling roll the adhesive normal concentration, gossamer cloth glued butt and get ground with a stiff brush. When working with the Web, as indeed with all materials containing fiberglass, use rubber gloves. Note that the finish color webs completely eliminates the emission of dust and glass makes the use of glass fiber is absolutely harmless to health. Of great importance is the correct choice of adhesive. There are cases when the glue sold in complete with spider, did not provide sufficient water resistance compound that led to the formation of bubbles, wrinkles and yellow spots in the process of applying the finish coat of paint. Practical experience with the spider can be recommended for its sticking glue QUELYD "Special Vinyl, featuring a high and, importantly, stable quality. Get perfect joints gossamer webs almost impossible, so they need to putty. This operation is performed after priming the entire surface of the ceiling of the water-dispersion paint diluted with fresh water by 10-30%. The exact relationship of paint and water point is impossible, because different brands of paint are very different in density. After drying primer joints and minor surface defects shpaklyuyutsya "Vetonitom CD" or "Vetonitom LR, puttied areas are ground fine sandpaper, and finally the ceiling is painted a water-emulsion paint. In old houses with wooden beams even use webs may not be enough. In these cases a complete pasting surface of the ceiling plaster fiberglass with a cell 2x2 mm. Grid shpaklyuetsya, polished, primed with diluted glue to wallpaper and glued Web, as described above. This "layer cake" provides the maximum degree of protection from the exit of cracks in the ceiling surface. More details on the application of stucco mesh glass cloth can be found in the "TS" 1 / 2001. Staining the ceiling Finish painting the ceiling is paint rollers (preferably new) to the pile of medium length. Foam rollers, and rollers used for priming, is not recommended. Significantly accelerates and facilitates the work of a special plastic tray for paints, which allows overcoming the excess paint and evenly distribute it across the surface of the roller. To facilitate the purification tray can vystelit piece of plastic film, the edges of which are fixed on the outer perimeter of the bath with adhesive tape (scotch). After completing the film is removed and discarded along with the remnants of paint, a tub is clean. Currently, the market for construction products represented a huge number of brands of water-dispersion paints. Objectively assess the quality of paint is only possible by trial vykraski. Has proven himself a relatively inexpensive but high-quality water-dispersion acrylic paint "VDA-B" (Moscow factory Skim). Prepared by the ceiling is primed diluted aqueous dispersion paint. This operation allows you to identify minor defects, almost imperceptible to the ground, but the unpainted surfaces. After puttying and polishing the damaged areas the ceiling is painted undiluted paint. Paint consumption is determined by its properties and, above all, spreading rate (complete information about the properties of paints in the "TS" 1 / 2001). It should be borne in mind that on surfaces covered with gossamer, paint consumption increases by 20-30% due to friability of the material. Wallpapering After completion of staining the ceiling you can begin to pokleyke wallpaper. For wallpapering, specialized adhesives. Wallpaper paste, along with high adhesive properties, must have a certain level of water resistance, effectively resist the development of mold and mildew (fungicidal properties), not to leave stains on the wallpaper and, finally, easily stirred and not to form lumps. Unfortunately, not all brands of adhesives provide equally good results. Professional finishers are recommended for all types of paper-based wallpaper glue QUELYD "Express" (white and green packaging), and for vinyl, textile and wallpaper for painting - the already mentioned QUELYD "Special vinyl (white and purple packaging). Preparation of glue (as instructed) is usually straightforward. To avoid the formation of clots, the water in the tank (bucket) to "spin," stick to the formation of stable the funnel, into which a thin stream poured out the contents. The liquid in the bucket to continuously stir until completely dissolved the glue. Before wallpapering the entire wall surface primed with glue diluted with clean water by 20-30%. In most cases, adhesive is applied to the back of wallpaper, but some of the wallpaper (for example, non-woven) provide the adhesive directly onto the wall, which must be indicated in the instructions for use. Before starting work on the wall (with a plumb) fend off a vertical line that serves as a guide when applied first flag. Modern wallpaper just butt glued, so the sequence of mounting paintings (from window to door or door to the window) has no value. Wallpapers are cut into pieces with a certain allowance (50-70 mm) in length. During this operation must take into account rapport (repetition frequency) pattern, the presence of which requires careful selection of adjacent panels at a height to match the picture. Some types of wallpaper (monophonic, wallpapers for painting without the ordered texture, etc.) do not have rapport pattern that virtually eliminates waste and significantly accelerates the work with them. The reverse side is covered with wallpaper glue (using a paint roller), fold in half pieces (glue inside) and maintained in such condition within the time specified on the package (usually 3-7 min). Not necessarily withstand this time to the nearest second, but too much "perederzhivat" is also not desirable. In particular this applies to cheap paper wallpaper, which can swell to such an extent that they will start to unravel in the hands. Impregnated adhesive wallpaper superimposed on the wall, wrinkles and bubbles are smoothed out with a stiff brush. Used for this purpose cloth is not recommended because on some types of wallpaper - mostly paper - the paint can come off preprinted paper. Pasting paper wallpaper, you need to watch closely that the glue is not squeezed out of the joints. From the surface of vinyl wallpaper adhesive easily removed with a damp cloth, they are virtually painted, so work with them easier. Because the pieces are cut with a stock length, after sticking to the ceiling and skirting an excess of material. This excess is trimmed with a sharp knife on a metal ruler. Dull knife crushes and tears the paper, so the blade should be changed often enough. The bottom edge of cloth pasted trimmed so that it is slightly (4-6 mm), curved on the horizontal shelf moldings. Quite often there are problems with hanging a border on the surface of vinyl wallcoverings. Even the use of specialized curb-adhesive does not provide an acceptable outcome: a short period of time begins to peel off the curb, and sometimes just fall off. Just sticking curb tapes directly to the wall surface ensures long-term service wallpaper with this decorative element. Technology sticking border looks as follows. Around the perimeter of the room at the correct height fend off a horizontal line. After that, stick the top (over the border) of the wallpaper, the lower edge of which is cut off on drawing a line with a sharp knife and metal ruler. Border, pre-impregnated with adhesive, and glued back to back to the edge of the wallpaper, and its bottom edge (15-20 mm) to the wall is not pressed. Cloth wallpaper lower number of factories under the curb and cut off at its bottom edge. Cut off strip is removed, then the curb permanently bonded to the wall. This job requires great attention and accuracy, but provides an ideal (and lasting) compound curb tape wallpaper. Gluing paper over paper wallpaper border is no difficulty, as a rule, does not cause, but the result is worse. In this case, are also encouraged to adhere to technology described above. Latest tip: in the process of wallpapering and until they are completely dry to eliminate any possibility of drafts. Draughts cause uneven drying wallpaper and as a consequence of their non-uniform shrinkage, which can lead to the spread of joints, poor adhesion webs, and in severe cases - to a violation of the integrity of the wallpaper. Paul Kolosov